The ritual observance of the holiday of Sukkot, which begins Sunday night, involves an etrog (citron). Since this Sukkot falls on the heels of a sabbatical year, Israeli-grown etrogim are off-limits, so Jews the world over will import them from elsewhere, especially Morocco. Ben Sales recounts his trip to a remote region in the Atlas Mountains where citrons are grown for this purpose:
As we got to flatter terrain, my fixer stopped and grinned at me. He raised his fists in triumph and motioned at me to take a photo. Down the path, as we passed by a river, he pulled a cluster of grapes off a vine; we all shared the snack. I allowed myself to exhale. I looked back at the sandy brown mountainscape we’d just traversed, freckled with palm trees and set against a bright blue sky. Maybe this would all work out, I thought.
A few hundred feet later, a man stood in front of us wearing a caftan and snow hat with what looked like a bush to our left. The fixer shook his hand. My translator pointed at the bush.
There it was, hanging just inches above the ground: a bright green etrog.
I soon saw others camouflaged among wide green leaves and weeds. The bush was, in fact, part of a grove. It looked less like the orchard I expected and more like a bramble—as if the fruit just happened naturally to grow there. I followed the branches down a rocky, uneven slope, dodging errant etrog vines and trying, once again, not to lose my balance.
Read more on JTA: http://www.jta.org/2015/09/17/news-opinion/israel-middle-east/worth-a-trek-searching-moroccan-mountains-for-etrogs